Emir Koleksiyonunda Bulunan Zürih Menşeili Çantalar ile Bayburt Keselerinin Tasarımsal Özelliklerinin İncelenmesi
Kadın giyimi aksesuarlarından biri olan el çantaları ile türdeşi para keseleri, bulundukları dönemin ruhunu, yaşam stilini ve kültürel zenginliğini gösteren maddi kültür unsurları arasındadır. Çalışma, çanta ve keselerin tarihî gelişim sürecine ve tasarım özelliklerine odaklanırken aynı zamanda her iki aksesuarı birbiriyle kıyaslayarak incelemek9 tedir. Bu kıyaslamada çanta ve keseyi önemli kılan, Zürih kökenli çantalar ile Bayburt kökenli keselerin nesneleri taşımalarının ötesinde aynı koleksiyonda yer almaları ve yapıldıkları dönemin stil, tür, malzeme ve teknik özellikleri hakkında önemli ip ipuçları sunmalarıdır. Farklı iki kültürün sosyal yaşam gereklilikleri çerçevesinde gelişen çanta ve keselerin çeşitli özellikler bakımından ele alınmasının kadın aksesuarlarının tasarımsal özelliklerinin anlaşıla9 bilmesi açısından önemli olduğu düşünülmektedir. Çalışmada nitel araştırma yöntemlerinden etnografik araştırma deseni kullanılmıştır. Araştırma iki aşamada gerçek9 leştirilmiş, birinci aşamada konunun ana hatları ile ele alındığı tarihî veriler toplanmış, ardından veri toplama aracı olarak yarı yapılandırılmış görüşme formu ile koleksiyon bilgilerine ulaşılmıştır. İkinci aşamada çanta ve keselerin ölçü, form, dokuma, süsleme ve dikim teknikleri araştırmacı tarafından geliştirilen bilgi kartlarıyla detaylandırılmış, son olarak elde edilen bilgiler tarihî ve tasarımsal arka plan okumalarıyla tartışılmıştır. Böylece bu çalışma ile tarihî öneme sahip hem yurt içi hem de yurt dışı kökenli farklı kültürlere ait çanta ve türdeşi keseler aynı araştırmada çeşitli yönleri ile ele alınmış ve ileride yapılacak benzer çalışmalar için bir kaynak oluşturulmuştur.
Design Characteristics of the Zurich Handbags and Bayburt Purses in the Emir Collection
Handbags and purses, as female accessories, are key elements of material culture that reflect the spirit, lifestyle, and cultural richness of their time. This study examines the historical development and design features of handbags and purses and compares these two accessories. What makes bags and purses significant in this comparison is that handbags originating from Zurich and purses from Bayburt, in addition to holding objects, are part of the same collection and offer valuable insights into their period's style, type, material, and technical characteristics. Analyzing the handbags and purses that evolved due to the social requirements of two distinct cultures, based on various characteristics, is essential for understanding the design features of women's accessories. The study was conducted using an ethnographic approach and a qualitative research method. It was carried out in two stages: in the first stage, historical data were collected, and the topic was discussed in general terms; then, collection data were collected through semi9structured interviews. In the second stage, the size, shape, weaving, decoration, and sewing techniques of the handbags and purses were outlined in the information cards created by the author. Finally, the study data were discussed in relation to the historical and design contexts. Thus, the study examined historically significant handbags and purses from both domestic and foreign cultures to develop a resource for future studies.
The bag, which is made of different materials and used in the transportation process, is a garment complement that appears for a certain purpose. Bags that reflect the personality and taste of the user have been a symbol of power and wealth in the historical process. Furthermore they have been referred to with various forms and names throughout history. This is the first bag form seen in history. These pouches are attached to clothing in various forms or carried by hand, in the form of a bag containing personal items such as money and handkerchiefs.
The ancient Egyptians carried bags made of linen and leather containing fragrances, cosmetics or coins, Roman soldiers carried decorated bronze9colored bags, and men and women belonging to the upper class in the Middle Ages used money bags similar to the reticule. European nations have used ‘pear9shaped’ pouches, which are popularly used in decorative arts 15. and 17. Between the centuries. These bags have evolved over the centuries to brand bags such as Hermès (1837) and Louis Vuitton (1851), and thus they have continued their development. Nowadays, they have become important complements of clothing collections. Pouches presented the rarest examples of which, like their European counterparts, have a very ancient history in traditional Turkish arts. According to information from archeological excavations, kurgans, reliefs, miniatures and wall paintings, the Central Asian Turks used pouches, which were attached to the pendulums of belt buckles.
The tradition of tying the belt and belt continued during the Seljuk and Ottoman periods even after the Turks settled in Anatolia. These pouches, which have been seen in Anatolia since the early Turkish periods, have continued their existence to the present day as a continuation of an ancient tradition, although their use has decreased. The study aims to discuss the elements of bags and similar bags, to highlight and to Decipher the similar and different aspects of accessories belonging to two different cultures. They have undertaken important tasks about the periods in which he was and about the research that was done before him. The aim of the study is to decipher the place of bags and pouches in the historical process, the form, pattern, technical and material characteristics in the culture they belong to, the artistic and design influences they feed on, and the similar and different aspects between each other. The ethnographic research method, one of the qualitative research methods, was used in the study. The information of the collection related to the semi9structured interview technique as a data collection tool was obtained. Furthermore, thus, the cultural and social background of the periods to which the bags and bags belong, as well as the data sources, have been comprehensively evaluated.
The study has been started with the special permissions obtained (ethics committee permission certificate and permission for the works to be used within the framework of publication). It has been seen in the field studies that have been examined, pouches that vary depending on the type and size of the item to be used in the region. In the research, paraboloid (half ellipse), triangular, square and rectangular forms were found in the region. Most of the pouches made as dowry items have small sizes. Most money pouches have been seen in the area. Few examples of these sacs have reached the present day.
According to the information obtained in the field from the bags and pouches, they were fed from their own cultures. In this case, it has been influential in the period art movements. One of the important results of the study is that the bags represent the Art Nouveau art movement. The decorative elements used in the bags and the technical characteristics used in these elements also strengthen this knowledge. On the other hand, similar results have been obtained in the study of the ornamental properties of pouches. It is extremely normal that the pouches are influenced by traditional Turkish arts in terms of form and decoration. Because the Bayburt province has been the sanjak center of the Ottoman Empire for many years. On the other hand, Bayburt has been home to various civilizations in ancient times.
Within the scope of the research, about 70 national and international sources through which bags and pouches belonging to two different cultures passed were examined. As a result of the examination, it was obtained that the bags and pouches belonging to two different cultures show great ethnographic artifact characteristics of historical importance in terms of form, weaving, ornament and motif characteristics, especially in the period and years of construction.
The handbags that originated from European reticules and purses, which are key elements of material culture in Turkey, are significant for understanding the historical period. Their weaving, form, color, motif, decoration, embro9 idery, and sewing characteristics provide valuable insights for future research. Ethnographic research, a qualitative research method, was used in this study. The study data on the handbag and purse collection were collected through semi9structured interviews, while the cultural and social background of the periods of the handbags and purses, along with data sources, was established through a comprehensive and in9depth document review. Before the study, special approvals were obtained from the ethics committee and the collection owner. The absence of comprehensive studies on purses in the literature presented a significant challenge in the classification of the sources. In this study, a theoretical framework was first developed by examining handbags and purses from a historical perspective. The findings, which included the visual and design characteristics of the handbags and purses, were then analyzed.
In this study, we used an ethnographic approach, a qualitative research method, to examine the historical and design characteristics of the Zurich handbags and Bayburt purses in the Emir collection. The study material included two Zurich handbags and three Bayburt purses. The history of Bayburt province in Turkey, home to the Emir collection, dates back to 3000 BC. This city is among the regions where the Turks first settled in Anatolia. Bayburt, which was a sanjak under Ottoman rule until 1878, was part of the Erzurum province until 1927. It then became a district of Gümüşhane province, and in 1989, it was established as a province. The Emir family is one of the longstanding families of Bayburt. The eldest member is Mustafa Efendi, known as Kitapsız Hoca. Selbin Emir, one of Mustafa Efendi’s grandchildren born in 1952, is the owner of the purses discussed in this study.
It has also been seen that the design findings based on the results from historical findings indicate that the pouches dated to the 70s retain the form, weaving, motif, embroidery and sewing characteristics seen in previous periods. The situation is not different with bags. Nations keep alive the characteristics born of their cultural arts as a positive situation born of emulation and inspiration in art. The transmission of cultural elements stemming from the arts of various nations through imitation and inspiration is viewed as a beneficial result of cultural interaction. Situations involving artistic inspiration, influence, and the act of being influenced are common interactions among artists.
On the other hand, while it is unlikely that the handbags were added to the collection before the purses, It can be inferred that the handbags may have inspired the purses. The sewing, decoration, and embroidery techniques support this. It should not be overlooked that the source of inspiration in design plays a crucial role in generating ideas.
As a result, the study examined bags and conspecific pouches belonging to two different cultures of historical importance in the same study. Thus, it was possible to look at the historical and design characteristics of cultures at the same time, and it was concluded that it could be an effective study in terms of contributing to subsequent research based on the findings it obtained. Based on these analyses, the main findings on the Zurich handbags and Bayburt purses in the Emir Collection are presented in Tablo 1.