Kahvehanelerin Kent Belleğindeki Yeri: İstanbul’daki Kahvehanelerin ve Belgrad’daki Kafanaların Karşılaştırmalı Analizi
Osmanlılar tarafından Avrupa’ya tanıtılan kahvehaneler Balkan ülkelerinin hemen hepsinde benimsenmiştir. Gerek Türkiye’deki kahvehaneler gerekse Osmanlı kültürünün bir uzantısı olarak ortaya çıkan, Balkanlarda kullanılan adıyla, kafanalar günümüzün modern dünyasında halen günlük hayatın bir parçası olarak varlıklarını sürdürmektedir. Günlük hayatın basit ve karmaşık gerçekliklerinin temsilcisi olan “kahvehaneler” ve “kafanalar” sadece bir kamusal alan olmanın ötesine geçerek ilk tiyatro temsillerinin, sinema gösterimlerinin yapıldığı, iş anlaşmalarının ve evliliklerin ayarlandığı yerler haline gelmiştir. Bu özellikleriyle, içinde bulundukları kentlerin zaman içerisindeki değişimine şahit olmakla kalmayıp, bu süreçte aktif bir rol de üstlenmiştir. Bu çerçevede, bu çalışmanın amacı kahvehanelerin ve kafanaların bellke mekânları olarak sosyal, işlevsel ve mekânsal özellikleri vasıtasıyla toplumun kolektif belleğinde oynadıkları rol bakımından incelenmesidir. Söz konusu kolektif belleğin kent belleğine etkileri, kentlerin dinamizmi ve hızlı değişimi göz önünde bulundurularak ele alınmaktadır. Bu etkinin farklı ülkelerde ve toplumlardaki benzer ve farklı yanlarını ortaya koymak amacıyla İstanbul’daki kahvehaneler ve Belgrad’daki kafanalar kuşaktan kuşağa aktarılan kültürel mirasın önemli bir parçası olarak karşılaştırılmaktadır.
The Status of Coffehouses in Urban Memory: Comparative Analysis of Kahvehanes in Istanbul and Kafanas in Belgrade
Introduced by the Ottomans to Europe, coffeehouses have been adopted by almost all Balkan countries. Coffeehouses both in Turkey where they are known as kahvehanes and in the Balkans where they are known as kafanas have emerged as an extension of Ottoman culture while still maintaining their existence as part of daily life in today’s modern world. As both simple and complex representations of the realities of daily life, kahvehanes and kafanas had gone far beyond being just a public space to being the places that staged the first theatrical plays and made the first cinema screenings, as well as where marriages and business deals were arranged. Due to these characteristics, they are not just witness to the transformation of the cities where they are located, but have also assumed an active role in this process. The purpose of this study is to analyze the kahvehanes and kafanas as spaces with memories by considering their role in this framework by means of their social, functional, and spatial characteristics. The impact of the subjected collective memory is addressed in view of cities’ dynamic and rapid changes. In order to reveal the similar and distinctive aspects of this impact in different countries and societies, the study compares the kahvehanes in Istanbul and the kafanas in Belgrade as a significant part of the cultural heritage that has passed from one generation to another.
The study aims to explore the symbolic meanings behind the transformed image of kahvehanes and kafanas throughout history and to explore them as sites of memory. For the purpose of this study, the Turkish and Serbian terms of kahvehane and kafana will be used not only because these terms better describe the similarities between these places but also to refer to the same type of place in the multilingual Ottoman Empire.
Istanbul and Belgrade, both being ruled by the Ottoman Empire have had great significance in its history, Istanbul being the capital until the founding of the Republic of Turkey, while Belgrade was the empire’s gate that opened out to Europe. Because they shared the same history for almost 500 years, both cities have many features in common, the coffeehouse culture being among these. With their origins as part of Ottoman culture, both kahvehanes and kafanas still exist in today’s modern world as part of daily life in both Turkey and Serbia; these coffeehouses continue to serve the same purpose despite minor differences.
Places do not have a memory of their own, but they may trigger the memory of the people. One might get caught up into remembrance through feasts, rites, images, stories, and other texts as these carry the memories that people had invested into them. Accordingly, cities can also be considered as places of memory that shape the memories of the citizens through their collective experiences. In other words, while the transformation process in city spaces leads to the emergence of new buildings; the existing buildings embody both their current form and a memory of their former state. In developing urban structure, memory is the consciousness of the city. Yet demolishing the buildings in a city may be considered as a step towards destroying the collective memory. When memories are lose and as a result a memory crises occurs, the effects may be felt on the continuity of the subject and of a culture as it moves from past to present. The dynamic structures cities have as well as their on-going transformations owing to both global trends and local/regional factors lead to urban amnesia. Thus, memory is closely related to temporal, spatial, and social factors and is subject to change according to the identity of the group and the necessities of the present time.
This study has adopted a comparative approach in order to reveal the differences between the kahvehanes and kafanas. The scope is limited to the kahvehanes in Istanbul and the kafanas in Belgrade. As far as methodology is concerned, the spaces that present the data with respect to urban memory are addressed within the framework of Massey’s (2005) three propositions, the first of which suggests that spaces are a product of relationships. The second proposition indicates that variety or plurality bestows togetherness and a heterogenic structure to a space. Lastly, the third proposition designates spaces to have dynamics that are reproducible within the framework of relationships. Hence, by establishing strong relationships between spaces and society, the first of these propositions focuses on the representations of space as a product of relationships. Secondly, plurality is approached in terms of social dimensions as spaces have heterogenic structures. Finally, relations are established through the temporal dimension in association with the spaces’ dynamics and transformations.
The kahvehane society played an important role in the emergence of public spaces in the Ottoman Empire. The new form of sociability that emerged from kahvehanes gained pace very quickly and in a short time became the center of everyday life, exceeding the borders of Istanbul and spreading to other cities in the Ottoman Empire.
While wars continued and cities and lands changed hands, kahvehanes and kafanas as the extension of kahvehanes in Serbia became the places where these changing dynamics were observable through the conversations, state talks, entertainment, and even the uprisings that revealed economic corruption as well as the reformations. Both kahvehanes and kafanas served various functions, from simply being the living room of a house to being the first performance venues and witnesses of the important political events that changed the course of history. But above all, kahvehanes and kafanas allow one to observe the daily experiences of ordinary people sitting in coffeehouse, their agendas, relations with other people, worries, and hobbies; in other words, the simple details of everyday life.
Aside from a few kahvehanes located in large cities, the majority in today’s Turkey are still male-only spaces. Although the decorations have changed with the divans being replaced with tables and chairs, kahvehanes continue to serve only tea, coffee and light refreshments. However considering them as the cultural venues they had been in the past is currently difficult. Instead of live performances, people watch TV while they play backgammon or card games and discuss current political and economic events.
The kafanas in today’s Belgrade, on the other hand, can be considered as restaurants that offer traditional food and musical performances. They continue to have the key urban and traditional features of the city and its culture in addition to being meeting points. However, the main difference between kafanas and kahvehanes is observable in their clientele, as both men and women can eat and enjoy their time together in today’s kafanas.
Despite all these complexities and in addition to the religious and cultural differences, the similarities between the kafanas in Belgrade and the kahvehanes in Istanbul are notable, which demonstrates that the people of Belgrade had largely adopted the concept of the coffeehouse that the Ottomans had introduced. Although today these coffeehouses have been subject to change in accordance with the needs of the modern world, they continue to reflect the social, cultural, political, and economic status and daily life habits of the cities where they are located. Thus, a number of similarities and common elements exist between kahvehanes and kafanas, demonstrating the fact that they are representations of memory.